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Journal for 20-September-2004 : Cluny

A late start today as everything is soaking wet from the overnight dew. It's getting into mid autumn, and lots of trees are losing their leaves, and the sun doesn't come up till 8:00am, or even later if like this morning there is a thick fog on the lake. So it was a late start, and an even later start from the supermarket!

Brunch on the grass outside the supermarket (baguettes of course) ruined by the smell of pigshit emanating from the nearby fertilised paddock. We retreated to the town square, to contend with the dog poo smell. If France has a problem, it's that it's awfully difficult to escape the aroma of animal excrement. It really is everywhere.

Lots of fun cycling again today, across farming country through tiny villages to the city of Macon. Macon has a permanently congested central bridge made of stone arches that blends in seamlessly with stone lines river walls and old architecture of foreshore (only identifiable as modern by the neon signs). This part of Macon looked like the old part of Paris. Each of it's bridge's 10 arches are of different heights and spans, reflecting the various maintenance and design standards that applied over the centuries, each time an arch has collapsed and needed to be replaced.

One last bit of back tracking as we found the Bourgone bike path and cycled through the old rail tunnel, then on to Cluny.

Along the bike path are bike hire stalls operating out of the disused railway stations that serviced the abandoned rail line who's formation is now the bike track. They were patroned by Americans constantly arguing the toss over which of the old clunkers they were hiring was most appropriate for them.

Slept (OK camped) by the TGV rail line, where every 3 minutes a large aircraft would blast by at 250km/h.


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